I landed in Hakodate feeling a tingling sense of excitement. This northern port city in Hokkaido gave me instant chills of wonder. The sea breeze carried a hint of adventure. My journey was about more than scenery, though. I wanted to uncover its past and feel the echoes of a history that has shaped every street corner.
When I wandered through Hakodate’s neighbourhoods, I couldn’t ignore the joyful buzz all around. People smiled in a kind, relaxed way. I remember thinking, “This place feels different from Tokyo.” I live in Tokyo, so travelling north felt like entering a different world. Hakodate has a laid-back charm that invited me to stay longer. It felt like I was stepping into another era. That sense of timelessness made me eager to learn more about the city’s proud heritage. 🍀
Below, I’ll share what I discovered. I’ll also include practical tips. If you’re planning a visit, you’ll find this background helpful. If you love history, you’ll be thrilled by the layers of stories hidden in Hakodate’s streets. Let me guide you through it all. I hope you’ll feel the same wonder I did. 😍
A Warm Welcome in Northern Japan
Hakodate is in southern Hokkaido. This region is Japan’s northernmost island and is famous for its cooler climate. The city has an impressive harbour that once played a crucial role in Japan’s international trade. Today, it still welcomes ships and visitors from around the world. I felt its welcoming spirit as soon as I arrived.
Reaching Hakodate is easy. One can fly from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Hakodate Airport in around 1 hour 30 minutes. I decided to fly since it was faster and cost me about US$150–200 (around ¥20,000–¥26,000). Alternatively, some friends told me about the bullet train (the Shinkansen) from Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station, which takes around four hours. For exact flight or train schedules, it’s best to check Japan Railways Official Site or your preferred airline’s website. I personally love the thrill of flying and admiring Hokkaido’s coastline from above. ✈️
Upon arrival, I noticed that Hakodate’s pace is calmer than Tokyo’s. The residents have a welcoming nature. They’re proud of their city and eager to share. I sensed an instant camaraderie. There’s also a subtle European vibe in some parts of Hakodate, reflecting the foreign influences that shaped its character. That blend of cultures sparked my curiosity, so I decided to dig deeper into how the city’s history began.
First Impressions: A Port with a Global Touch
Hakodate’s charm lies in its balanced mix of Japanese tradition and foreign influences. I strolled along the waterfront and saw the Red Brick Warehouses, known as the Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses. They’re located near the harbour and now serve as trendy shops, cafés, and event spaces. Their official site is Kanemori Red Brick Warehouses. 🏠
These buildings were once bustling trading spots. Long ago, European ships docked in this port to trade goods like silk, tea, and more. The brick architecture felt unique for a Japanese town. I kept thinking about how bold Hakodate must have seemed back in the day. It opened its doors to the world when much of Japan remained closed. It was a significant moment. People from abroad left behind their architectural styles, religion, and even food preferences. Eventually, the city’s identity blossomed into this diverse cultural tapestry.
In the 19th century, Hakodate was one of the first Japanese ports to open for international trade. That shift gave it an edge in modernisation. You can still feel that open spirit on the streets. It’s in the cafés serving Western-inspired menus. It’s in the colonial-era buildings perched on the hillside. I felt proud seeing how the city honours this blend of cultures. Each structure tells a story of resilience and cooperation. 🍀
History Unfolds: Opening Japan’s Doors
To truly appreciate Hakodate, it helps to understand Japan’s isolation policy, known as sakoku. For centuries, Japan had limited contact with foreign nations. Only a few Dutch and Chinese merchants could trade in special enclaves. This isolation lasted until the mid-19th century. Then, in 1854, the Convention of Kanagawa (also called the Perry Convention) was signed. It ended Japan’s long period of isolation. As a result, Hakodate, along with Shimoda and Nagasaki, became one of the first international trading ports.
This change transformed Hakodate overnight. Foreign merchants arrived, and new ideas flowed in. Industrialisation picked up pace. Western-style buildings appeared on the hills and near the harbour. Walk around Hakodate, and you’ll notice these remnants. You can feel that turning point in Japanese history. It’s visible in the mix of Western architecture and old Japanese houses. I loved seeing those contrasts. One moment, you’re passing a wooden Shinto shrine. The next, you spot a classical British consulate building. 🏛️
If you want to dig deeper, the Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples is a good place to start. It explores not just the port’s history but also the indigenous Ainu culture that existed here long before foreign ships arrived. Entry costs about ¥300 (around US$2). It’s an affordable glimpse into the city’s layered background. I spent an afternoon there, learning about how trade routes, cultural exchanges, and native traditions shaped modern Hakodate.
The Star-Shaped Legacy: Goryokaku Fort
One of Hakodate’s most iconic historical sites is Goryokaku Fort. This star-shaped fortress blew my mind. I had never seen anything like it in Japan before. Goryokaku was built in the 19th century to defend Hakodate against foreign attacks. Ironically, it was heavily influenced by Western military designs. I found this so symbolic of how Hakodate adopted foreign concepts while keeping its own spirit.
Goryokaku is now a peaceful park filled with cherry trees. When they bloom, the entire area turns pink. I visited in spring, and the view was surreal. 🌸 You can climb the Goryokaku Tower to get a stunning aerial perspective of the star shape. Tickets for the tower are around ¥900 (about US$7). This vantage point made me appreciate the fort’s strategic design. The star shape minimised blind spots and provided multiple angles of defence. It was a cutting-edge concept back then.
Strolling through the park, I felt a mix of awe and calm. People picnicked under the cherry blossoms. School groups snapped photos and giggled. The fort’s moat sparkled under the sunshine. In that moment, I realised Goryokaku was more than a relic of war. It was a symbol of how Japan adapted to a changing world. Hakodate was at the forefront of that transformation. I also learned that the final battle of the Boshin War took place here. That event further shaped Hakodate’s identity. 🏯
Evolving Through Conflict: The Boshin War
In the late 1860s, Japan was going through the Meiji Restoration. This era saw the shogunate’s power fade and the Emperor’s influence rise. The shift was messy, and conflict erupted. The Boshin War was a civil war between those who supported the new imperial government and those who backed the old Tokugawa shogunate. Hakodate became a battleground.
The rebels loyal to the shogunate retreated to Hokkaido. They set up a short-lived Ezo Republic in Hakodate. Although the republic didn’t last, it left a huge mark on local history. Goryokaku Fort became the rebels’ stronghold. However, imperial forces eventually triumphed after a fierce clash. This battle ended the war. That day sealed Japan’s transition into a new era of modern governance.
I tried to visualise the chaos that once filled these peaceful grounds. The contrast was striking. Here I was, admiring the cherry blossoms. Meanwhile, 150 years ago, the same place witnessed gunfire and political upheaval. It made me feel grateful. Today, tourists explore the fort with curiosity and delight. The tension and turmoil have faded into a memory. Still, the city pays quiet tribute to that period, reminding visitors that Hakodate helped shape Japan’s modern identity. 🍀
Influences from Abroad: Motomachi District
Hakodate’s Motomachi district offers another window into the city’s multicultural past. After the port opened, foreign communities settled on the hillside. They built Western-style homes, churches, and consulates. Many of these structures remain intact. As I strolled up the sloping streets, I spotted a colourful cluster of churches. There’s the Russian Orthodox Church, the Hakodate Orthodox Church, and a few Catholic and Protestant churches. Each one is adorned with architecture that looked more European than Japanese. The official tourism site, Hakodate Travel, provides maps and walking routes.
This district feels like an outdoor museum. I meandered past charming stone staircases, manicured gardens, and panoramic views of the harbour. Signs in English and Japanese explained the significance of each building. Locals take pride in these heritage sites. The area draws visitors from all over, so expect a lively atmosphere. I tried to avoid weekends because it can get crowded. Weekdays were quieter. I could enjoy the scenery at my own pace. 😍
At one point, I stumbled upon an old British consulate that’s now a tearoom and museum. Admission cost about ¥300 (around US$2). Inside, you’ll find photos and documents revealing how the British community lived here. You can sip tea while imagining the old world. I felt as if I’d travelled back in time. I almost expected to see Victorian-era gentlemen walking by in top hats. The fusion of Japanese and European influences made my heart flutter with excitement.
Savouring Local Delights: Seafood & More
History aside, Hakodate is also a dream for food lovers. The city’s maritime environment ensures fresh seafood year-round. I had some of the best sashimi in my life at the Hakodate Morning Market (Asaichi). This bustling marketplace is near JR Hakodate Station, and it’s best to arrive early. Around 5 or 6 AM, fishmongers start hawking the catch of the day. The smell of the sea mixes with the chatter of locals. 🍣
Crab, squid, sea urchin, and salmon eggs are top picks here. Prices vary, but I spent about ¥1,500–¥2,000 (US$11–US$15) for a hearty bowl of kaisendon (seafood rice bowl). I tried an assortment of sashimi that tasted unbelievably sweet and fresh. If you’re feeling playful, you can join a small fishing game. Some stalls let you catch live squid from a tank, which they’ll then prepare as sashimi on the spot. It was an exciting experience, although I felt a bit sorry for the squid. Still, the flavour was unforgettable. 🦑
For travellers seeking a variety of Hokkaido specialties, the market also offers dairy products, corn, melons, and more. Don’t forget to look for soft-serve ice cream made from Hokkaido milk. It’s creamy and addictive. I devoured mine in a few minutes, even in chilly weather. If you have more time, try local ramen at the market’s small restaurants. Hakodate is famous for its salt-based ramen. The broth is light but still flavourful. Many shops open early, so you can savour ramen for breakfast—something I never expected to enjoy but ended up loving. 🍜
Modern Blends with Heritage
Hakodate today is a modern city with convenience and advanced infrastructure. The local trams crisscross the streets. They’re a fun way to explore the main areas without walking too much. A single ride costs around ¥210–¥260 (US$1.50–US$2). Day passes are also available for tourists. I noticed how smoothly the city has integrated modern living into its historical backdrop.
Restaurants and cafés often occupy refurbished heritage buildings. Hotels have taken up old Western-style mansions, too. Tourists can sleep in a Victorian-era setting with updated amenities. For those on a budget, hostels near the train station provide easy access to local hotspots. I personally stayed at a mid-range hotel near Goryokaku Park, costing around ¥6,000 (US$45) per night. That seemed affordable for a comfortable room with a view of the city’s skyline. 🍀
Hakodate’s nightlife is also notable. The bay area transforms under shimmering lights. The Red Brick Warehouses host evening events, such as live music and seasonal festivals. You can pop into cosy pubs that offer craft beers brewed locally. If you prefer a relaxed vibe, sign up for a night cruise around the harbour. Prices hover around ¥2,000–¥3,000 (US$15–US$22). I felt the city’s romance under the moonlit sky. The port seemed to whisper stories of centuries past.
Climbing Mt. Hakodate for the Night View
No visit to Hakodate is complete without seeing the famous night view from Mt. Hakodate. It’s often mentioned among Japan’s top three night views, alongside Kobe and Nagasaki. You can reach the summit by ropeway, which costs around ¥1,500 (US$11) for a round trip. Alternatively, you can drive or even hike, although the hike can be a bit challenging in colder months. 🌌
I took the ropeway just before sunset. As we ascended, the city lights started flickering below, reflecting on the water. The sight was breathtaking. The vantage point reveals Hakodate’s unique shape, stretching into the sea like a thin peninsula. On one side, you see the bay. On the other, the Tsugaru Strait. The air was crisp, and I remember the hush of people in awe. No one spoke loudly. We were all stunned by the sparkling panorama.
After taking countless photos, I visited the observation deck’s café. I sipped hot cocoa while staring at the view. That moment was priceless. The city’s lights reminded me of glittering jewels. It was hard to believe that this same location once guarded against foreign fleets. Today, it welcomes travellers from every corner of the globe. That transformation touched me deeply. 🍀
Unique Customs and Traditions
Besides its foreign influences, Hakodate has preserved a few local customs. One tradition involves the “Squid Dance” performed during the Hakodate Port Festival in August. Locals line the streets, wearing colourful costumes and dancing to cheerful music. Squid is the city’s iconic seafood, so it shows up in festivals and local mascots. I found this tradition endearing because it highlights how seafood shaped Hakodate’s culture and economy. 🦑
Local onsen (hot springs) culture is also vibrant here. You can find a variety of onsen resorts offering open-air baths with ocean views. One memorable spot is the Yachigashira Onsen near the base of Mt. Hakodate. It’s owned by the city, so admission is only around ¥430 (US$3). The experience of soaking in mineral-rich waters while gazing at the harbour was incredibly relaxing. I felt the stress melt away as I listened to seagulls and distant ship horns.
Another curious local quirk is the “Lucky Pierrot” fast-food chain. It’s unique to Hakodate. The bright signage and wacky designs caught my eye immediately. Their menu includes everything from fried chicken burgers to sweet desserts. The chain’s theme varies by location. I visited the bay-area branch, which featured old maritime décor. Their signature Chinese Chicken Burger was surprisingly tasty. It cost around ¥380 (US$3). 🍔
Exploring the Surrounding Region
While Hakodate is a star in its own right, the surrounding area also brims with attractions. Onuma Quasi-National Park is just a short train ride from Hakodate Station. You can admire scenic lakes, small islands, and walking trails. Canoeing is popular in summer, and the autumn foliage is gorgeous. In winter, the park becomes a snowy wonderland for cross-country skiing. I spent a peaceful day here, soaking in the tranquillity of nature. The train ride cost about ¥650 (US$5) each way. 🏞️
If you’re interested in hot springs, consider going to Yunokawa Onsen. It’s about 5–10 minutes by train from Hakodate Station. This area has several ryokan (traditional inns) that offer private and shared baths. Some have sea views. Prices vary, but budget around ¥10,000 (US$75) or more per night for a ryokan stay with meals. It may seem pricey, but the experience is immersive. You’ll feast on kaiseki (multi-course Japanese dinner) and then relax in a hot spring. I felt pampered beyond belief.
Weather and Best Times to Visit
Hakodate’s seasons each offer something special. Spring brings cherry blossoms at Goryokaku. Summer delivers mild temperatures and vibrant festivals. Autumn decorates the city with red and gold foliage. Winter is chilly, but the snowfall adds a magical layer to the scenery. I personally love spring. The blossoms made me feel like I was inside a fairytale. However, winter has its own charm. If you don’t mind cold weather, you’ll see snow-capped buildings that enhance the romantic vibe. 🍀
Practical Tips Before You Go
- Connectivity: Most hotels offer free Wi-Fi. Pocket Wi-Fi or a data SIM card is handy if you plan to explore on your own.
- Transport: Purchase a day pass for the tram if you plan to hop around multiple spots. It’s more cost-effective.
- Language: Some locals speak basic English, but it’s still helpful to learn a few Japanese phrases.
- Money Matters: Cash remains king. Carry enough yen. Credit cards are accepted at many places, but small stalls and markets might only take cash.
- Local Etiquette: Respect quiet hours at night. Japanese culture values harmony and consideration for neighbours.
- Official Information: Check the Hakodate Travel website for updated info on events, closures, and weather.
Reflecting on Hakodate’s Enduring Legacy
Hakodate’s history is more than just old buildings and museums. It’s written in the spirit of its residents. I sensed this whenever a local smiled or offered help. There’s pride in how the city opened Japan’s doors to the world. That pioneering spirit lingers, shaping Hakodate’s charm today.
I left Hakodate with renewed appreciation for how history can mould a place. In Tokyo, life can feel hectic. In Hakodate, time flows differently. The city’s historical layers create a serene but vibrant atmosphere. I found myself thinking about how societies grow. Sometimes conflict, like the Boshin War, sparks new beginnings. Other times, peaceful trade leads to collaboration and innovation. Hakodate experienced both paths.
If you have the chance, visit Hakodate with an open mind and a curious heart. Stroll through Motomachi’s foreign-flavoured streets. Climb Goryokaku Tower and picture the epic battles that once raged below. Try the fresh squid at the Morning Market. Warm your soul at a local onsen. Watch the sunset from Mt. Hakodate and see the city sparkle like a thousand stars. Feel that gentle sea breeze against your skin. Let it carry you through centuries of stories. 🍀
I hope this insight into Hakodate’s background inspires you to explore its winding lanes. May you learn as much from this journey as I did. It’s a place that melds history, culture, and natural beauty into one unforgettable adventure. When you stand by the harbour, gazing at passing ships, you might even sense the same awe that foreign sailors felt long ago, discovering Hakodate for the first time. 🌟
