Yonggungsa Temple, perched dramatically on the rocky cliffs of Busan, South Korea, is one of the country’s most unique and visually stunning Buddhist temples. Unlike most Korean temples tucked away in the mountains, Yonggungsa gazes out over the vast expanse of the sea. Its breathtaking location alone is enough to draw visitors, but its history, which stretches back over six centuries, adds a layer of mystique that’s hard to resist.
The Founding of Yonggungsa
The temple was first established in 1376 during the late Goryeo Dynasty by the great monk Naong Hyegeun. Naong was a revered Buddhist teacher and a royal advisor to King Gongmin, and he is said to have founded Yonggungsa after receiving divine guidance in a vision.
According to historical accounts, Naong was meditating when the Sea Goddess of Mercy, Haesu Gwaneum Daebul, appeared to him in a dream. She instructed him to build a temple by the sea to bring prosperity and peace to the region. Obeying this celestial command, Naong selected the rocky coastline of Haedong, an area known for its spiritual energy, as the site for the temple. It was initially named “Haedong Yonggungsa” (海東龍嶽寺), which translates to “Korean Dragon Palace Temple.” The name reflects the temple’s deep ties to the sea and the mythical dragon often associated with protection and strength in Korean folklore.
Destruction and Revival
The temple’s history hasn’t always been serene. During the Japanese invasions of Korea in the late 16th century, Yonggungsa suffered extensive damage and fell into disrepair. For centuries, it lay in ruins, forgotten by history and overtaken by the relentless elements of the coast.
It wasn’t until 1930 that Yonggungsa began to regain its former glory. A monk named Ungang led a restoration effort, rebuilding the temple with a vision that paid homage to Naong’s original design while incorporating elements suited to the modern era. The restoration included the construction of its now-famous 108-step staircase, which descends dramatically to the temple grounds and offers visitors stunning ocean views along the way.
However, it is important to note that recent research and testimonies from local historians have cast doubt on the temple’s claimed historical lineage. While Yonggungsa is often marketed as a centuries-old temple founded by Naong, some experts argue that it is a relatively modern construction from the 1970s. In fact, reports published in 1999 by the Busan Ilbo and verified by local cultural experts suggest that Yonggungsa’s association with Naong and the Goryeo Dynasty may be a fabricated narrative aimed at enhancing its prestige and attracting more visitors. The site’s original name, Bomunsa, was allegedly adopted during the Japanese colonial period and later renamed Haedong Yonggungsa in 1975. Critics claim this revisionist history exemplifies how some religious institutions manipulate their origins for commercial gain.
A Modern-Day Sanctuary
Today, Haedong Yonggungsa is a thriving spiritual and cultural landmark. It’s particularly famous for its association with the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, Gwaneum, who is believed to reside in the nearby waters. Pilgrims and tourists alike visit the temple to pray for blessings, especially on New Year’s Day when the first sunrise over the sea is considered auspicious.
Key features of the temple include:
- The Main Sanctuary (Daeungjeon Hall): Adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant paintings, this hall enshrines a statue of Buddha and serves as the focal point for prayer and meditation.
- The 10-Metre High Statue of Haesu Gwaneum Daebul: Standing near the shoreline, this towering statue honours the Sea Goddess and serves as a guardian figure for sailors and fishermen.
- The Pagoda with Four Lions: This unique structure symbolises joy, anger, sadness, and happiness—emotions that shape human existence.
- The Golden Buddha of Wealth: A smaller yet equally significant statue where visitors leave coins and offerings, hoping for prosperity and financial fortune.
Cultural Significance
Yonggungsa’s seaside location and rich history set it apart from other temples in South Korea, but its cultural significance runs deeper. It’s a place where Buddhism, folklore, and the natural beauty of the Korean peninsula converge. The temple’s festivals, especially Buddha’s Birthday in May, are celebrated with great fervour. During this time, the grounds are illuminated by countless colourful lanterns that create an ethereal glow against the backdrop of the ocean.
Criticisms and Challenges
Despite its beauty and historical importance, some visitors have criticised Yonggungsa for being overly touristic and capitalised. During peak seasons, the temple can become crowded with tourists, which detracts from the serene and spiritual atmosphere that many seek. Vendors selling souvenirs and snacks near the entrance have also been noted to create a somewhat commercialised feel. Additionally, while the picturesque location by the sea is a highlight for many, the modern restoration and alleged historical revisionism surrounding the temple’s origins have sparked debate. Critics argue that the site is better regarded as a scenic attraction rather than a deeply historical or spiritual one, given its relatively recent construction in the 20th century.
Getting There and Practical Tips
Yonggungsa is located in Gijang-gun, about an hour’s journey from central Busan. The most convenient way to reach the temple is by taking the Busan Metro to Haeundae Station and then transferring to a local bus or taxi. Once you arrive, be prepared for a bit of a walk; the 108 steps leading to the temple are not just scenic but also symbolic, representing the 108 earthly desires in Buddhist teachings.
- Entrance Fee: Free, but donations are welcomed.
- Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and enjoy the soft light over the sea.
- Local Tip: Wear comfortable shoes for the stairs and rocky paths. Also, take your time to explore the surrounding area, which offers additional coastal trails and photo-worthy spots.
Why Yonggungsa Stays in Your Heart
My visit to Yonggungsa left a lasting impression. The sea breeze, the sound of waves crashing against the rocks, and the spiritual energy of the temple create an atmosphere that’s hard to describe but impossible to forget. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a spiritual seeker, or simply someone looking for beauty and tranquillity, Yonggungsa delivers on every front.
Yonggungsa isn’t just a temple; it’s a story. It’s the tale of a monk’s vision, a community’s resilience, and a divine connection to nature—even if parts of that story are more modern myth than ancient history. If you’re ever in Busan, this iconic temple is an absolute must-see.
